Day 16: Camping Mialanne Arrens-Marsous to Aire de Bivouac of Refuge d'Ilhéou

This morning was a whole pack of pains au lait and a litre of milk breakfast morning! Oh yes! Well, I couldn't fit those into my pack, could I?! Also, despite the iffy weather I had decided to do the Tour du Val d'Azun route out of Arrens-Marsous. This is a deviation of my beloved GR10 and does a climb and traverse (not a summit) of Pic de Habouret (2006m) rather than staying low in the valley and passing through Estaing. It is supposed to be more scenic, but this is only the case if you can see past the BROUILLARD - arrrgghhhh!

It had rained a lot over night, but was dry now however cloud was hanging over all mountsins in view. Once out of Arrens-Marsous and over the attractive Pont de Lapadé that crosses the Gave d'Azun, I reached the junction for the Tour du Val d'Azun. It was very steep climbing for about an hour through what I'm guessing was lovely views of both the surroundings of the climb and of Arrens-Marsous and the valley far below. I kept thinking about going back and doing the low route which was below the cloud, but every step up committed me more until I was past the point of no return! Upon reaching the first col after the effort of the really steep climb I had the unusual reaction of sticking my middle finger up at the BROUILLARD and telling it where I thought it should go (in English). I was the only person up there so guess that was OK!...Turns out I wasn't alone! I'm not sure if the bloke resting on the nice stone wall at the col knew anything of my histrionics, but it's more than likely he did see my child like actions! It was time for another 'cool as a cucumber' moment and to walk by saying Bonjour with vigour and to act as if that was all normal adult behaviour!!

Once round from the col walking adjacent to a lovely stone wall I had a few moments laughing to myself at how I must have looked, I hope I amused his day a bit! So anyway, dignity restored and intact again, I continued the Tour du Val d'Azun away from the wall and up towards what sounded like sheep, they blend in well with BROUILLARD! Now after my 'moment' at the col I was playing it cool, maintaining my cool GR10 trekker image (if Craig can ever look cool?!). The sheep had other ideas though! They normally disperse, or look at you then bolt, but not this lot! The boldest of the flock surrounded me, no gap, sheep's coats rubbing my legs, and the less bold just followed their behaviour so that the cool GR10 trekker was not trapped in the middle of a sizeable flock of sheep! At least I don't have to concern myself with the lack of views I thought as I wondered what the heck was happening?! I soon realised that the bold ones were sniffing and lacking my handbag I carry - guess I'll have to explain the handbag in due course! Within said handbag were two large and heavily stuffed cheese baguettes, these guys were after eating my cheese baguettes! It wasn't sheep's cheese so I guessed it wasn't a form of indirect cannibalism, but still guys, you eat grass!! There was only one thing for it, make noises that indicated they should give way - no, didn't work bar confused sheep behind the bold ones looking totally bemused. The next plan was walk boldly through the tight inner ring making the noises. Some success, they did give way but they weren't giving up! I was followed for the next 200m by a flock of sheep attempting to gain access to my handbag!!

The sheep must have some inbuilt range from their base as they gave up the chase. I could still hear them through the cloud so I climbed the next steep quickly until just after another col where I had a rest. The fella from before caught up and passed me, we had a brief interaction in French and he slated the BROUILLARD!! I had another chuckle, had he seen me and was making me feel less embarrassed?! I think he was also just genuinely frustrated at it, but he kept him middle finger down! As I sat for 10 or so minutes, blue sky appeared, it warmed up and the views of this side of the Tour du Val d'Azun opened up.

It was wonderful to have views! Made the effort of the Tour du Val d'Azun worthwhile!

After the little rest there was a short traverse to another col and to a magnificent panorama of the valley I was going to descend into, with views now of Pic de Mousquès (2222m) on my side and Soum d'Arraillérouy (2361m), Moun Né (2724m) and Soum de Grum (2657m) on the opposing side as I looked up towards Lac d'Estaing which wasn't visible in the distance. The scene was very green from the grass in the valley through the heavily tree clad lower mountainsides, but towards the higher reaches this gave way to imposing rocky cliffs that reached up to the peaks. The feeling of some awesome Hautes-Pyrenees trekking to come was exciting my soul. The sky was blue, the sunshine was warming my bones, and I set off happily down the steep track to the Gave de Labat de Bun that flows down from Lac d'Estaing.

There was some road to walk up which was fine as it was a gentle gradient and not particularly busy. I filled water from the lovely crystal clear Gave de Labat de Bun and met a couple I'd seen climbing Col de Saucède with their dog. A brief chat revealed they walk sections every year and they were finishing this section at Lac d'Estaing. Their poor dog was still loyally following them with bandaged paws, I didn't feel this was fair to the poor thing. It looked happy enough but it wasn't one of the mountain dogs you see that are born into this terrain and life. Hey ho, not for me to judge, well maybe slightly! Some climbing onto path again bypassed road walking to carry on up the valley floor.

Lac d'Estaing (1161m) is very accessible by road so is a tourist hotspot and was pretty busy. It is a lovely lake, but the busy nature of it detracts from that. It has a campground and I was debating staying as there was a huge climb ahead, I was a bit tired, the possibility of wild camping didn't seem great and the reports of storms incoming were in forecasts! Sitting down relaxing in the sunshine my body was thinking stay Craig, but my head and heart said climb Craig! So I drank water, and found the path that entered the forest and started the long ascent to Col d'Ilhéou (2242m).

The start of the climb was through forest, nice relief from the hot sun. Also, I have come to really appreciate the wooded sections. They give a nice variety to the trail for their own interesting flora and fauna, as well as their own beauty. I get a different feeling walking in them, the grandiose mountains are still there, but it's fascinating to be within a different ecosystem whilst on them. And the atmosphere changes, in terms of light and temperature, but also emotionally for me the simple trekker briefly passing through their presence! In conclusion - I find them lovely to experience!

The climb towards Col d'Ilhéou is between Soum de Grum (2657m) to my left and Grand Barbat (2813m) to my right. Once out of the forest, past a Berger cabane and into the grassy valley formed by the Ruisseau de Garren Blanc the views up to the imposing duo was spectacular! The view up the climb was equally imposing, phew this was going to be some effort!

Some Berger's cabanes look so idyllic it their settings, but I can assure you they don't come with many home comforts apart from access to cracking spring water (well, at most of them, this one didn't)!

The initial slopes of the grassy valley were gentle, which gave me a reassuring sense of getting closer to Col d'Ilhéou, because at first it looked so far away, and there were some ominous storm clouds brewing angrily above the mountains in front of me!

The view behind gave a different sense of calmer weather, oh and a stunning view!

Looking behind it was fascinating to try and think which of the mountains you'd trekked, but I couldn't work it out so I satisfied myself with rests on the now massively steep climb just marvelling at the view. It took your mind off the next session of the 100's of metres of mind-blowing steepness yet to be negotiated!

I did start to consider looking for a wild camp on the ascent, and dropped 'Superpack' a couple of times to scout potential areas. But, they were either too pastoral (i.e. there were too many cow and sheep turds to negotiate), or too steep to be comfortable. Also, I knew how stunningly beautiful the Aire de Bivouac of Refuge d'Ilhéou area is! So, I decided to plough on and get there come whatever!

At times I was concerned about the weather, was I going to get smashed by a storm on this remote, insanely steep climb?!

The climb seemed never ending! I could tell roughly where the Col was, but it didn't seem to be getting closer quickly! I started to see a couple climbing ahead of me, and another trail runner couple descended past me and wished me 'Bon courage', so the feeling of isolation lifted and I gained a bit of extra strength to get the last 150 odd metres climbed strongly! The Col d'Ilhéou (2242m) was reached, what a great climb it was!

Once over Col d'Ilhéou the vista opened up to the spectacular terrain yet to come, which could really be absorbed and enjoyed on the gentle walk down a grassy approach to this wild looking, granite landscape. Also, the clouds were numerous but looked less threatening now!

As I descended and got closer to Lac D'Ilhéou the mass of Pic de Nets (2428m) dominated the horizon.

And with a look to your left Soum de Mauloc (2074m) and Pic de Péguère (2316m) overlooked the deep valleys that led down to Cauterets.

The GR10 goes down to Cauterets after Lac d'Ilhéou, but pre-pandemic in about 2018 or 2019, I had visited Cauterets to walk the area and check out the GR10 paths! I therefore had a plan to venture off trail, do a bit of freestyle trekking around this area!

Lac d'Ilhéou came into view about an hour after Col d'Ilhéou and was a fantastic sight. I was having pangs of excitement about camping at the Aire de Bivouac at the far end of the lake, tempered by worries all the sparse places a tent can be pitched would be taken!

Walking around the lake after a water fill at the Refuge d'Ilhéou (1988m), it seemed like a few tents were on the main area but I had hope for a small, separate area just for me!

With a little exploration and extra leg work after a gruelling days trekking I found my spot. A perfect lakeside, private area with direct waterfall view to one side and the scree field to tomorrow's target (Col de la Haugade) on the other side. Perfect!

I put the tent up quickly, and made haste down to the lake to rinse wash! I was expecting icy cold water which would induce embarrassing shrieks, but the shallows were bearable and I kept my dignity!