Day 23: Luz-Saint-Sauveur

Published on 31 August 2022 at 13:43

04/08/2022 - Rest and relaxation day around Luz-Saint-Sauveur

I started my rest and relaxation day by getting up at the crack of dawn! This was to get the few stinky things from yesterday washed and laid out to dry as the sun got going heating the day up! After that chore, I headed into the village to go check out the Boulangeries to seek out delicious pastries for breakfast! And of course to have a café au lait or two!

The old central area of Luz-Saint-Sauveur is really lovely. It has that proper mountain village feel I love, with houses built on different levels all joining the narrow roads that squeeze between them. Wooden shutters on all windows, and a sense of time not really meaning much! As I wandered the dead early morning streets I took time to appreciate the 

After my gorging on pastries and coffee stop was completed, I wandered slowly back through the old village, past the village square that was busy last night but now dead! I love walking through places that I have just to myself! Is that selfish? Or just appreciative? I get more enjoyment, so I'm going with appreciative!

I decided to take a walk back up to the Pont Napoleon again, to watch the Bunjee jumping with a café au lait! This was a nice walk, and the bridge was impressive, but no Bunjee and no café au lait! The snack place was shut! So, I ambled back down the pleasant walk to Luz-Saint-Sauveur! About the bridge .. Napoleon III had this bridge built (1859 to 1863, height 65 m) to thank the inhabitants of Saint-Sauveur. The Napoleon Bridge was built during the visit of the Empress Eugenie, who was cured of her sterility at the thermal baths of Saint Sauveur. This bridge opened up the Gavarnie valley .. all my own knowledge that!

About those thermal baths. I'm pretty sure there is a hospice here that provides hope for terminal illnesses. I've walked past it several times, and I'm sure I saw what was a hearse type ambulance there this morning. I hope people get at least comfort there. I had to try let go of very sad thoughts around that.

After the Pont Napoleon walk I walked across 'town' again to take a walk up to the old castle .. are there new castles?!

The castle is .. perched on the summit of a rocky outcrop, it was over the centuries a true strategic site for the protection of the valley and also a place of refuge for the population. Its construction dates from the 10th century by the Count of Bigorre, Centule III. It's origin, however, seems older because the Arabs would have occupied it. In the 14th century, it was occupied by the Knights Hospitaller. Then the English took possession until 1404, when Jean de Bourbon, the Count of Clermont, helped by the inhabitants of the valley commanded by Aougé de Coufitte, drove them out and put an end to the English occupation of the valley. The castle was then gradually abandoned .. all from my own command of history!

The view from the castle gave a great view of Luz-Saint-Sauveur and up the Gavarnie valley that the Pont Napoleon opened up! So, all that was left was pool time at the campsite. Why are pools in blistering heat so inviting, but then so cold?! Is this an age thing I found myself pondering? Ignoring my childhood lifetime of living in pools training, I used to spend hours in pools in hot sunshine without feeling cold! Must be age?!

After the pool I took a walk up to the Chapelle de Solféino, a beautiful spot looking down onto Luz-Saint-Sauveur .. now about that Chapelle .. Before the passage of Napoleon III, the hill known as Solférino bore the name of Ermitage de Saint Pierre. These ruins caught the eye of Napoleon III. During his stay at Saint Sauveur in the company of the Empress, he gave the order to build the current Chapel which was baptized “Solférino” in homage to the Emperor. It was built with the funds provided by the imperial couple, designed and built by the contractors and architects of the Church of Saint Sauveur .. all my own historical knowledge!

I had a lovely, quiet dinner at my tent to finish off the day. Quiet then turned to an absolutely dramatic lightning show on the high mountains, probably over near Vignemale. Fantastically impressive lightning flashes with a literally constant rumble of thunder. I worried for people camping up there, but knew I'd be OK up there and therefore so would they be! The storm eventually hit Luz-Saint-Sauveur, so I zipped up into the comforting safety of my tent!

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