Day 28: Camping La Pène Blanche, Loudenvielle to Wild Camp on North slopes of Cap de Hounts-Secs

I slept pretty well on the blown sleeping mattress! The oversized 'pillow' didn't get any bigger, and the deflated mattress wasn't too uncomfortable! Light was appearing at 06:15 and it was warm, so I got out of the sleeping bag straight away and started ablutions and device charging strategy! Power bank had charged overnight but I wanted to try get some juice in other things - headlight battery & phone 100%! With the upcoming week of wild camps I needed as much charge as possible to help the solar charger which I'll rely on.

I got organised really well, 'Superpack' was full to the brim with as much food as possible due to possible lack of shops and availability of supplies for the next week, as well as my pure food greed! The final thing to do was sit down, appreciate my stay at Loudenvielle, and work my way through a 10 pack of pains-au-chocolat, but I limited myself to half a litre of milk as didn't want to overdo things!

Full of calories, and devices full of charge, I was off nice and early through the attractive streets of Loudenvielle, and onto the steep climb to Germ. The temperature was lovely and cool, and it was great to be trekking dry after the soaked arrival into Loudenvielle!

There was around 400m of steep ascent to Germ - track at 1st, then narrow path. It was all through forest and to my surprise I arrived into Germ (1339m) after only 45 minutes! Must've been some pains-au-chocolat supercharged climbing! Germ is a beautiful mountain village. I very much enjoyed passing through it, almost a picture perfect mountain village. And to top it off there was the opportunity for a lovely coffee stop at the Auberge de Germ, great little place at end of the village. I upgraded to 'un double café' here, two espresso shots and no milk! I think I prefer the café au laits, maybe I can get double café au laits?! As I sat at the small outdoor terrace I did see a pretty strange sight of a huge dog chasing a car out of the village, literally trying to see the car off! I didn't stroke him!

After my nice break I continued, content with the start of the day. There was a short track up out of Germ that was ridiculously steep, honestly more than 45 degrees I'd say! Good job I'd had the caffeine! The track flattened off pretty soon and I passed a couple of lovely little stone buildings, probably old farm buildings but now little dwellings which looked amazing! No-one at home though!

After a bit more track traversing the lower slopes of Cap de Pène Soulit (2031m), a narrow path veered off to access the Val d'Aube. The steep side of the valley I was on was treeless, the other side was clad with pines, and the small Russieau d'Aube was flowing gently below. It was a very pleasant approach to what I knew was going to be a very steep climb up to Couret d'Esquierry (2131m).

The traverse brought me level with the Ruisseau d'Aube at a small dam, I was amazed by the crystal clear clarity of the water - mind you, its just flowing off the mountains ahead! There was a little bit of a steep section that levelled off into a pastoral area for some lucky cattle and sheep! They get to gorge themselves in a very beautiful and peaceful valley head, surrounded by Cap des Hittes (2368m), Pic de Nord Nère (2844m) and Pic de Hourgarde (2974m). To add to the beauty there was a long, impressive cascade dropping between Pic de Nord Nère and Pic de Hourgade. I had to drop 'Superpack' (well, gently place her down), and sit for 10 minutes to take it in.

From the lovely bowl the narrow path started a very steep climb up between Cap des Hittes (2368m) and Pic de Nord Nère (2844m). It crossed a small stream at the start, perfect for a water fill! I'm confident to drink from most mountain streams without filtering or treating the water. It's possible I'm ingesting a lot of cow and sheep wee and poo but my guts seem OK - touch wood! The path went mostly just straight up, with the odd switchback added in, a no nonsense ascent! I really enjoyed it. There were no trees, just the usual mountain flowers and plants I'm used to now, and some recently sheared sheep balancing perfectly on the steep cliffs of Cap des Hittes to my left.

The view behind me of the valley floor I'd just left, the impressive mountains creating the bowl and the cascade were impressive. To add to it, as I climbed, the vista behind me became populated with the mountains I'd trekked though in previous days. A truly beautiful morning climb! Even the light rain shower half way up was fine, I just stopped quickly to put the rain cover on 'Superpack'!

Couret d'Esquierry (2131m) arrived after about an hour of burning off a few of the pains au chocolat, maybe 3 or even 4 possibly?! The small flat Couret itself wasn't anything exciting, but the view on the other side was stunning in a completely different way than the side I'd just come up!

There was a long, steep sided, scree clad and treeless valley heading down towards what looked like very green wooded mountainsides. The path followed the floor of the valley, which still had Cap des Hittes (2368m) to the left and Pic de Nord Nère (2844m), but a completely different look and perspective on this side. And it was deadly silent in the deep, narrow valley. It had tried to rain a bit at the top, but the weather was hot and glorious on descending.

The tree clad mountains ahead seemed so green! I think it was the contrast with the blue sky, or my blood sugar was still sky high from breakfast! Whatever the reason it provided for beautiful walking! The path took me towards those verdant, green, steep sided, huge looking mountains opposite - Pic de Subescale (2436m) and Cap des Hounts Sec (2698m). The verdant green forest rising up the steep sides, until the trees gave way to rock, shrubs and grasses was stunning.

After another stop admiring the views from still up relatively high I started another very steep and long switchbacking descent through forest towards the Grange d'Astau area in the deep valley below. I assume Grange d'Astau was on old farm complex that was now a tourist destination for accessing the beautiful mountain day walks. For me a café double or a café au lait was the only decision to make!

It was roasting hot down in the valley, and I had a good hours stop at a nice shaded table at the Granges d'Astau restaurant (1139m) - I hadn't realised there was a more simple cafe a touch further on! It was fine though, two café doubles were enjoyed whist drewling at the lovely food being deposited around me! My two apples would be much nicer I convinced myself! I got out the awesome Goal Zero Nomad 10 solar charger and gave the all important watch some juice! This solar charger is so damn good, very happy to have it and carry it!

Fully rested and refreshed I got going up the track to Lac d'Oô (1504m). Due to the road access this was a tourist spot and it was a very popular walk up to the lake! Luckily virtually all people were descending so the caffeine fuelled climb was fine.

Lac d'Oô is lovely, with the spectacular Cascade d'Oô tumbling down from the cliffs high above into it's far end. From here the tourists thinned out a bit, just the stragglers that had probably been up to Lac d'Espingo where I planned to camp. However, after seeing a number of festival tents coming down and going up I was starting to wonder whether it was worth the diversion off the GR10?!

After a short think at the path junction, and with the weather holding for now, I decided to avoid the busy Lac d'Espingo and make a final effort to keep climbing up to Hourquette des Hounts-Secs (2275m). The Hourquette is a crossing between Cap des Hounts Secs (2698m) and Cap de Bassiéret (2296m) and I was hoping on the other side was some good wild camping.

It was a concerning climb as the storm weather behind me over Pic de Nord Nère and Pic de Hourgarde was looking and sounding intense, and I was sure it was heading my way! So, I didn't pause on the ascent and was met by an impressive view of the North cliffs and slopes of Cap de Hounts-Secs, with the rocks of the cliffs flattening into some promising looking grass areas! Could this be a perfect wild camp spot I excitedly asked my inner child!

There had been one other person ahead of me on the climb, who to my surprise continued on passed the potential camps. Part of me was relieved, that little bit selfish part that wants the wild camp to yourself! But, I didn't even know if there were any decent spots yet!

I quickly descended from the Hourquette des Hounts-Secs to investigate, as the thunder and lightning kept threatening from behind! My inner child excitement was spiked to extreme levels when I saw my spot, my flat bit of ground with immense views. All I had to do was get the tent up tout de suite before the ominous weather appeared over the towering cliffs of Cap de Hounts-Secs! It was rumbling and flashing just over the other side!

Fate was on my side, I got completely sorted (including a 'tent wash' - that's me washing as best as I can in the tent with dry wash, not me washing the tent!) before relative armagedon hit! I laid down feeling great in my warm sleeping bag, listening to a previously downloaded podcast, in tired happiness. I did think that I heard a voice as I dozed through the storm, but thought it might just be tiredness!

As I unzipped after the storm I realised it must've been a voice as I had a neighbour! We kind of waved and acknowledged each other across the desolate mountain terrain we were inhabiting for the night. I had a feeling he must've been smashed by that storm, poor fella! Anyhow, said storm cleared the skies beautifully and me and my new neighbour were treated to a magnificent evenings view and sunset sky, simply magnificent.