Day 37: Seix to Wild Camp just below Refuge d'Aula

Leaving Seix was a massive relief to me. It hadn't been good at all. But, I still had my beloved GR10 trail, and I knew that soon it would have me back on track. I stormed up the D704 road back to the horrible bin where I left the GR10 two days ago. It still smelled of what I now knew was a rotting animal, so I continued storming until I was well past the bin!

The path crossed the a stream into thick woods where trees were blanketed in moss, I was guessing that these are most definitely damp woods! I wasn't feeling great, but negotiating GR10 path was helping. It was a short climb to a road and junction around the area of Aunac. There was a bit of track up to Col d'Oule (749m) which then descended a long track to the D3 main road at the Pont du Salat (550m).

After negotiating the main road for a bit I reached the village of Moulin Lauga (541m) which was one of those places that had definitely seen better days. I'd hoped for a hot coffee, but the Creperie was shut down these days, so I settled for cold sachet coffee!

The scenery hadn't been particularly great so far today, but the GR10 would now head up towards Estours and the remote valley that the Ruisseau Estours flowed down, so I trekked of with good expectations of improving views.

Starting up the road away from Moulin Lauga a niggling discomfort in my upper left calf started to really bother me and change into a noticeable pain. After ignoring this for a couple of kilometres the noticeable pain became a limpable pain and impossible to ignore! This was not in any plans!

With ever hopeful steps I continued as road became track, and track arrived at the path that was the start of the ascent into the remote valley. The limp was unavoidable, in order to walk I had to limp, so hopeful steps were abandoned to necessary care with terrain in order to try and aggrevate the problem to the least degree possible!

I was conscious not to worry, that was pointless, but I was concerned as to longterm progress on the trek. I was also conscious not to think too deeply about that as my mental state hadn't recovered yet today - it was at this point that it started to rain heavily!

I hobbled up the path that followed the Ruisseau d'Estours up through forest to an old abandoned youth hostel type refuge where there was open ground in a magnificent setting. Cliffs surrounded all sides, a spectacular waterfalls cascaded over them on one side and the climb ahead looked down over the valley. It was such a shame the weather was shrouding it all and soaking me! I think if the weather had been good I would've been happy to stop and rest the calf here, and enjoy the spectacularness of the place!

However, despite my protestations to the nonplused cows, the rain didn't abate and I decided continuing up was the only option to take. It really was a desolate feeling alone in this valley with the weather and with the 'back of the mind' worry about the calf. Limp onwards Craig I told myself!

I started on the path towards the head of the valley and the steep climb through the Bois du Puech d'Aula. As the rain soaked me further, I turned my protestations to the horses now - they too were disappointingly nonplus! The woods provided respite from the rain, and despite the steepness, was enjoyable.

I was soon above and limping away from the potentially beautiful campsite I could've enjoyed in sunny weather.

The path was wet and narrow which made trying to look after the calf quite tricky.

The weather was shocking and showed no signs of abating! I was really liking my Trespass waterproof packable jacket though! And to be fair, the mustard colour looks good on the trail I thought!

At least there was plenty of water for the camp ahead. There would be no struggles on the hydration front!

I was still alone in this eerie landscape, it is such a privilege to feel like you have such a wonderful place all to yourself! In fact, there have been times that I feel annoyed when someone else turns up in moments like this! It passes quickly, but hopefully shows me just how fortunate I am at times!

The path down below already trodden looked like it was clear now I'd trodden it!

Up higher it was still wet and cloudy. However, as I climbed I did actually get little windows of clearing weather, like little teasers as to the views I could be having, before they closed up quickly again! It was lovely though, I can't deny that! I had been fortunate that this was only my 2nd soaking (out of the tent) on the trek so far.

A steep 'path to nowhere' shot!

Brief glimpses of blue sky made me hope beyond all hopes that I would arrive to glorious sunshine in the Refuge d'Aula area up above, be able to dry everything off, be toasty warm and have a perfect panoramic view?!

Despite the stinking thinking of Seix, the calf problem, the wet and the BROUILLARD I was feeling connected with my GR10. That special connection that gets me emotional enough I have to touch, and sometimes even kiss, the waymarkers. I can't explain it yet, I just let it flow. It warms my heart, gives me a feeling of safety, of comfort and of belonging. Whatever it is it's so special I wish I could bottle it. Maybe I am, who knows?

So, after emotional waymarker kissing, I continued up. Dampness was now my friend! Sunshine fantasies had been banished from my mind! This was how today was going to be, and that was fine by me.

My wild camp area wasn't far now once the climb levelled out.

I was treated to some awesome last views down the Estours valley. The blue sky below was deceptive, as turning 180 degrees revealed a different weather picture!

I genuinely hoped some trekker would have a great night camping down in that beautiful spot below the waterfalls. It didn't work out for me, but that's OK. I know I have a tonne of beautiful wild camps ahead, and for that I'm grateful.

I arrived up into the bowl that was home to the Refuge d'Aula (1550m) in one of those teasing weather windows. After a brief scout of the Refuge I returned to a spot I had identified for my wild camp, set up the tent quickly and went to take a photo. The blue skies had disappeared, but it still wasn't too bad before the BROUILLARD returned in permanent earnest!