Day 5: Bidarray to Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry

I awoke feeling distinctly human after the 2nd night of sleep recovering from the sunstroke - heat exhaustion - starvation - 'Megapack' episode! This morning was the moment I had to commit to cull the kit I had resolved to last night, in order that I could pack the beautiful new Ferrino Transalp 60! I took everything over to the toilet block as I could really organise myself in private there! I had got up at 5am so it was empty and I could really spread stuff out! It took a while to sort everything, and with every nook and cranny of the new pack stuffed, plus a dry bag to carry by hand, I was packed. I left the shoes and all the other culled items in a neat pile with the hope they'd all find a nice new home and get some good use. I didn't feel bad about it, as I think I'd adequately demonstrated that such immense weight on a trail like the GR10 is not possible! So if I was to carry on all these bits had to go. I had kept all the early birthday presents my mum and sister had kindly got me, so still had the solar charger which is a heavy item but a brilliant one (thanks sister) and the bright orange Addias Terrex were now on my feet (thanks mum)! The two person tent (yes I'll carry extra weight for a spacious tent!) fitted perfectly on the kit carrying straps at bottom of the pack so I set aside thoughts of a new, tiny, light weight tent when back in St Jean Pied a Port. I was sure that the extra kilogram it weighs would be manageable. Carry the kilo, save the euros Craig!

As I set off to walk the 2km to Bidarray a car was leaving the campsite with two guys in it. They asked something I didn't really understand but I saw my opportunity so I replied in an inquisitive tone 'Bidarray?' hoping I'd get a lift! It worked, so in I got and a few minutes later I had been dropped at the top of the hill I was crawling and vomiting up 2 days ago! I never did get to the bottom of what the guys asked me at the campsite! But, I was extremely grateful. Now, you'll excuse me this breakfast as it was only my 2nd day post starvation - a litre of milk and a whole pack of supermarket pains au chocolat! Oh yes, a dreamy breakfast sat on a low wall in Bidarray upper village!

I set off on the road out of the village and was passing the bar restaurant when a young guy worse for wear asked me the time. In my polite tourist manner I obliged and he seemed extremely pleased! Strange? Anyway, round the next corner I think I found out the reason. It looked like a bomb had hit the village street, air blowers were clearing it of plastic beer glasses and a bar the length of the street was being dismantled! So, the noises I thought were my recovery hallucinations making sounds out of the river next to my tent was actually a huge party in Bidarray! And I reckon that young guy had surpassed a certain amount of time drinking! I walked out of the village laughing, and certainly with my history no judgement on the young guy, just a hope his Sunday was going to be spent in bed!

The road rose fairly steeply out of Bidarray and I was passed by two trail runners. Had seen a fair few so far, some very fit people running these paths and mountain roads! Soon a narrow path left the road and just before it entered some forest I had to climb barbed wire that some bugger of a farmer had attached across the trail! It was obviously to manage the livestock but in other places they make these clever wire 'gates', whereas this idiot had just fenced it with barbed wire! With fear of ripping 'Superpack' I negotiated it with style and grace .. well let's just say I got over in one swearing piece! And to my relief so did 'Superpack'! Once into the forest the path hit the around 45 degree or more steepness that seems a feature of a Pyrenean GR10 climb! It was during this climb that I realised by no means was I fully recovered from what I had drained from my body over the last few days. With all the various fitness things I've done throughout life I'm fairly in tune with my body and it's strength and I knew it was struggling. I had anticipated full 'mountain' fitness would develop in the 1st week, but this was different, a sense of being drained of strength. I had developed a lived experience of the seriousness of heatstroke/exhaustion (I'm not sure of the difference but whichever one affected me didn't matter, it knocks your system for six!). I also started to fully realise just how far I took it without asking for help, silly Craig!! However, the pains au chocolat were an awesome idea fuelling slow steps with frequent pauses that saw an hours climb exit the really steep forest section into ferns and a lovely view of the Crêtes d'Iparla ahead.

The Crêtes d'Iparla are a series of ridges with sheer cliffs to one side and fairly steep grassy slopes to the other. Once up all the steep climbing the trail reached Col d'Iparla (950m) showing the Crêtes ahead. It then tracked the cliff edge side of the ridges providing stunning views down until the highest point Pic d'Iparla (1044m). All the time there were what I thought were Eagles spiralling up the thermals and then soaring impressively along the ridges. I commented to a hardy mountain looking French couple about the beauty of the Eagles .. non non non .. wrong Craig! They are Vultures! Good job I've had private school education most of my life! Anyway, still a very impressive sight to trek along to. Another impressive animal was some horned beasts I encountered shading themselves on steep rocks, not sure of their proper name!

From the vantage point of Pic d'Iparla I was able to marvel at a panoramic view of these early stages of the Pyrenean Basque Country. Despite the dry, dry heatwave it was really green in all directions. The terrain would become more 'rocky' as the Haute Pyrenees are approached, but here it's green steep hill/mountain terrain. I think steep is going to either be a common word I use, or won't be needed at all as virtually every single climb and descent appears to be really steep in the Pyrenees.

After the relatively grass covered Pic d'Iparla there was a slight descent through ferns to Col de Gapelu, a bit of a climb to get over Pic de Tutulia (983m) and then a more significant descent to the wooded Col d'Harrieta. I knew there was a spring near the Col, but in what condition I didn't know. Water was most definitely needed in the now searing heat, I struggled to believe tomorrow was due to be even hotter! The spring, which was a trickle, had been fitted with a big container nicely camouflaged with rocks by volunteers so as to hydrate trekkers. How bloody marvellous of those people! I missed the bit of the sign that said 'just a slight turn' of the valve is required and was reminded about the physics of amount of pressure a lot of stored water generates, that private school education again!! The drenching was fine in the temperature! With water refilled, a very soggy but delicious sandwich eaten, I started what I thought was going to be the descent into Bidarray.

My issues with reading means I tend to flick through stuff, or just not finishing reading things properly, so I'd not anticipated the additional climb before the descent! However, it was pleasant coming up through the forest from Col d'Harrieta to reach Astate (1022m), then a dip and a rise to the once again sun exposed Buztanzelhay (1029m). Now it was time to descend! First steeply to Col de Buztanzelhay (843m), then along narrow paths cutting into the sides of Aintziaga (905m) and Arrokamendi (730m) before a track and then road into Bidarray. The paths down provided great views, but this valley or side or area was a heat trap with zero air circulation, so with my concerns re very recent heat related illness I took it easy, but quick enough to not suffer in it too long!

Arriving into Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry brought relief from the heat in mind only due to the proximity of the campsite. The tarmac was acting as that extra heat boost having absorbed the sun's energy all day, so I headed towards the edge of the village and a pleasant campsite. The supermarket was shut as it was Sunday, what is it with me and shut supermarkets I was asking myself?! But, it was OK as stuff was open in the morning and there was a pizza shop for tonight! So, ice cream in hand from the friendly campsite lady I contemplated tent up first, or river swim first? River swim, so utterly refreshing in the 38 degree heat. It was much more comfortable to make camp after that, and a nice chill out was had laying as still as possible in shade to see out the peak afternoon/early evening heat.