18/07/2022 - 19.43kms / 1063m ascent / 1032m descent
With the heat so high yesterday the night was surprisingly fresh. I still struggled to get to sleep, but I also appreciated my body/system was still a bit all over the shop from heat (stroke/exhaustion)! But id rested a lot yesterday afternoon/evening and with the 5.5 hrs sleep my watch reported I felt much much better this morning. I was keen to get organised and packed away early today as it was due to top out at 42 degrees! The plan was to get up and over to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to assess what to do, whether to stop at the campsite or attempt a bit further for a wild camp?
I managed to get going by 07:45 as the SPAR wasn't open until 07:30! Even though I was feeling so much better, I still thought I deserved a ridiculous breakfast! So this morning it was a whole bag of cheap Madeliene cakes and a litre of milk, mmmm mmm! I can be such an utter pig with food so no excuses on this breakfast! Anyway, I thoroughly enjoyed it and set off out of the very attractive Saint Éttienne de Baïgorry initially on steep road which lead to even steeper track! Should I keep using the word steep?! Guess I have to really!
The climb of the slopes of Oylarandoy (933m) was fortunately shaded a lot of the way, but crucially there was a lovely breeze, a blessing as I'm sure it hit the 30 degree mark by 10am!! The trail leveled off and traversed along Oylarandoy's NE side and emerged at Col d'Aharza (734m) where much needed water could be replenished. There was a little more road then track to climb before a path resumed with a short descent to Col de Leizarze (828m) followed by an ascent to Col d'Urdanzia (849m). After a brief interaction with a very friendly horse that seemed to seek out attention from most bypassing walkers I set off up the final climb before Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port which was the grass covered Munhoa (1021m). The view from the summit was panoramic, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port was in sight albeit a long way down!
Once down the steep summit path the onwards descent started on a long and winding track, and this side was breezeless in the by now ferocious heat. I contemplated the views, it seemed ridiculous to think that the nice views I was looking at were not particularly attractive! I guessed it was just scales of attractiveness, it will vary as I travel onwards. The Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry side was the better scenery of the day in my humble opinion!
Anyhow, the track turned to road and it was only a couple of hours from the summit that I got to the village of Lasse (204m). I was very thankful for an ice cold water refill at the little hotel/restaurant, where I contemplated a café au lait but thought I'd best just get going the last short section.
Arriving into Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port was a Lidl! Nice one - top up of foods including a bag of pains au laits this time, oh and the litre of chocolate milk this time! I would allow myself one last gluttonous breakfast I thought! Restocked, I headed to the campsite as it was plainly obvious that anymore trekking in this heat was stupid, especially after my recent health experience! Craig and being sensible, what's happening here I thought?!
The rest of the afternoon involved one task, laying in shade eating lunch and slowly sorting gear out. A version of pottering about minus the moving about! It felt as if my skin was exposed to full sunshine when completely in the shade, bizarre! However, it was nice to rest and just chill out.
Once the evening had arrived I took a very slow walk around the town. It was strange in a way as I'd been here two days ago to rescue my trek! I walked around the old historic centre and over the kind of castle like wall/ramparts. Really pleasant. Must be a good rugby town as a decent sized ground in the distance! Ambled and sat watching the world go by until near sunset, when it was time to retire to the tent for the night.
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