Day 7: St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Sommet d'Occabé

Once again the mega high heat during the day didn't translate into a hot night which was a relief. Although I was up early enough, getting organised to go seemed to take a long time this morning! Maybe because I was trying to work out the best way to pack 'Superpack' with a couple of days of food as well. I packed all I could and then decided to walk carrying a dry bag with my water bottle, some food and my guide book! In all my treks I have been known to carry two bags, although these have been two backpacks - one on the back and one on the front!! But this was only a small dry bag! I walked to a nice bench just outside the arch of Porte Saint-Jacques and had my gluttonous breakfast of pains au lait and chocolate milk, delicious!

The initial walking was along nice country roads to the attractive hill village of Çaro. A quick water top up here at the fountain, which was for security not so much for the heat as today was much much cooler, and also was the first cloudy day I'd had! Seemed strange to not have blue sky and heat!

A bit more road walking and then the GR10 headed onto muddy paths through woods, and eventually into more open ground up the slopes of Gatarre (760m) as far as Col d'Handiague (587m). It was back to a small road after this, flat at first and then very steep switchbacks all the way down to Estérençuby (231m). Road walking sections must sound terrible and I'm sure some trekkers think so, but when they're just tiny roads with no traffic and stunning views I personally don't mind the variety.

Estérençuby is tiny, and the little hotel/restaurant looked like the perfect café au lait stop! I spent a very nice half hour on a great little terrace overlooking the stream, enjoying the most generous sized café au lait I'd had so far, and a very reasonable 2 Euros as well!

The steep road down and into Estérençuby was mirrored by an equally steep road up and out! Eventually a narrow path veered off the road and climbed towards Gîte d'étape Kaskoleta. I had considered stopping here in previous plans, but it was early and the weather was good, so I decided to go with last night's thinking and continue to try and make Sommet d'Occabé. So, with water filled I started up the ascent to a Col (820m) just below the summit of Ithurramburu (857m). Over the Col the trail followed a track down into the a valley ahead, a stunning view of the mountains ahead - Iraukotuturru (1151m), Arranohegi (1293m) and Arthaburu (1156m). It was towards Iraukotuturru that the GR10 was heading.

Trundling down the track I did what I love to do on the journey and just let thoughts wonder, meditation essentially. It was a very gentle descent, really lovely and incredibly green views with nice sunshine and blue sky now.

The track reached a stream at the bottom of the valley and from here it was time to start the steep, narrow ridge path that you get a great view of on the walk down the track. The view seemed to work as preparation for it! I had seen a couple inching up the ridge, which gave an impression of the steepness, and once I was on it the impression became reality! I really enjoyed the climb, it was great to feel good strength back in the system and hopefully the start of developing mountain trekking fitness.

Approaching the end of the ascent I caught up with the couple and after initial pleasantries we all recognised each other - it was a couple I'd met and chatted to briefly on day two. Such a nice couple, I think in their early 60's (or maybe late 50's?!), going along the trail for 3 weeks just doing as much as they wanted day by day! Awesome! It was another opportunity to laugh a bit about my initial trevails as I recounted to them what had happened! They were impressed with 'Superpack'! Not long after our chat I reached Col d'Irau (1008m) where I knew there was a water source, but couldn't find it! Had a short panic as needed it for the wild camp ahead! Eventually found the tap to great relief, so downed a litre and took a litre away and onwards to Sommet d'Ocabbe.

A short stretch of road skirting Iraukotuturru (1151m) before starting the ascent. The terrain was all grass now and the climbing not too steep, much more gradual all the way to the ancient burial mounds of Cromlech d'Occabé and then onwards to the summit of Sommet d'Ocabbe (1466m). Had an incident near the summit with an eager mountain horse who could smell my Ricola orange and mint mountain sweets in one of my packs front pockets. He keenly followed me which I saw as him wanting affection before understanding his intent when he tried to bite into my packs pocket! My new pack, 'Superpack' none the less - you can leave that alone Mr Horse!