Day 8: Sommet d'Ocabbé to Larrau (Camping Ixtala)

The night was spent being skirted by the thunderstorms I'd watched brewing. The flashes of lightning had initially made me think about my aluminium poles attracting a bolt and what that would do, but after a while my mind wondered to something else as it does! After that the lightning just created an atmospheric night with a humbling feeling from the awesome power of the heat generated storms. From my elevation I had an almost horizontal view to them as I watched until night darkness fully enveloped the area. Some of the flashes of lightning and rumbles of thunder seemed to blend in with dreams and sleep was good albeit a bit chilly due to the constant wind my nook was channelling, oh and a pretty low temperature! Once awake I decided to have a lie in until the sun started to hit my tent and warm things up! It was nice to doze and got more rest. However, things weren't really warming up, and still being a touch chilly I bit the bullet and packed bag in tent, then hit the cool air to break down the tent which was a bit tricky in the wind! All ready to go not long after 9am.

The 1st km was spent heading in the wrong direction off the summit upon which I had camped until the degrading path alerted me to the fact I'd veered off the GR10! I retraced my steps with a quiet swear word or two to myself, before rounding the summit to see the GR10 again - what a beautiful sight and sense of finding 'home' again! Spotted the friendly dad from yesterday and had a quick au revoir chat whilst his daughters were off exploring Somet d'Ocabbe leaving him to rest!

The trail restarted with a very pleasant downhill forest walk to reach a flat area through which the Urbeltza river flows. Had a quick stop at a new looking bar building which was quite busy hosting a Brebis cheese market - but I just concentrated on water refills! These were beautifully cold and gratis, poured from the bars 'beer style' water tap! Merci beaucoup! Whilst enjoying a cereal bar and some ice cold water I took in the nice buzz of the busy market stalls, families enjoying the river and lycra clad cyclists who seemed to be resting before taking on more small mountain roads and passes I suspected.

Refreshed, I headed off on the climb up to the Chalets d'Iraty complex, again this was predominantly through lovely woods with welcome shade in the strengthening sunshine. Just me and my thoughts. I find having the trail to yourself is such a beautiful privilege. Lots of rambling thoughts and meditations saw the climbing of Heguichouria (1348m) done quickly and the main building of the cross country ski complex come into sight. It had a nice little shop where I sourced a completely fruit based lunch, yum! Was able to refill water, and was quickly off again as I wanted to make the campsite I had reserved before leaving the UK at a reasonable time.

A short stretch of road led out of the Iraty complex and towards a climb, which I started after negotiating a herd of cows blocking my access! They don't care about trekkers when they're laid down chewing the cud! The short but steep climb was up the slopes of Pic des Escaliers (1472m) and the path crossed a Col at 1423m to then traverse the other side of Pic des Escaliers along steep cliffs. It was an impressive section offering pretty spectacular views. The rest of the afternoon's trekking was along narrow paths cutting into the steep sides of Belozkarre (1173m) and Hurdesparri (1006m). The geology seemed to be a blend of lush green slopes and increasingly steep and rugged terrain. Not that there hasn't been ruggedness so far, but just a sense of change as the Hautes-Pyrenees section gets closer. The path wound in and out of the mountainsides with a long series of ups and downs, until the final and very steep descent to Auberge Logibar. Felt brutal to the feet and legs - well, brutal to me when it was kms 29 and 30 probably!

Auberge Logibar (375m) is literally just a car park on a small mountain road and the Gites-Restaurant itself! Tiredness was kicking in so after quick water refill I thrashed out the 2.5km climb up the road to Larrau and to the campsite, each step got more difficult as dreams of the comforts of camp grew stronger! Anyway, had one of my lovely orange Ricola mountain sweets on the last km which saw me there fine! I was taken to my camping terrace, which I hated at first as it wasn't the perfectly green, soft and manicured hedge surrounded plot I had been dreaming of thrashing up the road! But it's amazing what a tired mind can perceive, as after settling in I was perfectly content with my spot, only gripe was an ugly building behind it that definitely would benefit from a hedge!! But, it had a lovely view of the cliffs I had traversed earlier and was comfortably flat.

It was heavenly to have a good shower and shave. I got my stinking clothes washed and hung out to dry on my terrace trees! There was a little camp shop which I went to for my dinner - chose a massive tin of carrots and peas to have with left over baguette and now very smelly remnants of a Camembert wheel! On leaving the shop I bumped into the lovely couple in their early 60's (or late 50's?!) who I'd passed on todays trek looking tired and admitting to feeling very smelly! I'd let them know about the campsite and luckily they had managed to get the very last spot. As I sought solidarity about the trudge up to the campsite we ended up laughing as they told me about a shuttle service that runs up the road from Auberge Logibar! Damn!! They were enjoying cider and Espinadas from the catering van, so I sat and chatted for an hour, lovely to do so. They offered me a drink motioning to their ciders, but I politely declined. I'm not sure if I'll see them again, but it's been an absolute pleasure to spend brief moments with them on the trail - they inspired me and were so friendly, open and warm in our encounters.