11/08/2022 - 28.22kms / 1815m ascent / 1860m descent
I woke up this morning determined that yesterday's woes were exactly that, yesterday's. Today was a new day on the trail, a new day on this adventure and I was excited to get going. I detest my stinking thinking, but I know I have the ability to move on from it. I have to. I have proven to myself I have the ability to regain positivity that allows me to try daily to achieve that peace of mind and contentedness that is essential for my survival.
The Scottish lady I'd met yesterday had also camped at the site but sadly had camped around a wasps nest and got no sleep at all, argghh! She had my utmost sympathy, that must've been a hellish night!
Once packed I made haste down the road out of Juzet-de-Luchon back to the road where I left the GR10 yesterday. The route took a steep and narrow path that kept crossing the switchback road that took the odd car up to the upcoming hamlets of Sode and subsequently Artigue.
Sode was a tiny and fascinating hamlet. Half derelict, half lived in! A working farmer still there, a resident that looked like he had done up an old property. Old buildings built into the road, or maybe the road was built around the buildings I pondered as I paused in the hamlet. 'A Vendre' was on a great derelict property, my mind dreamed of buying something like it one day?!
After Sode the path climbed less steeply through lovely, peaceful forest. Things steepened a bit on approaching Artigue (1230m) and the predicted high heat of the day had already arrived.
Bagnère-de-Luchon was now far below in the valley, but the climbing of the day was far from over!
It's common to see abandoned old stone buildings on the paths, all to do with old farming I think. Maybe from the days of no mechanised vehicles, all leg power in the mountains working the land and tending to animals.
I knew water could be an issue today, and that this hamlet might provide the last top up for many hours and kilometres. Time to 'do a camel' as my immature side calls it - fill the bottle, drink it all, try drink some more after that, then spend the next couple of hours running for trees to pee against when you remember that a human body does not mimick a camels just because your immature side wants it to! I haven't seen anyone else 'doing a camel', they just trek with 3 litre camel packs not a 1.25 litre old mineral water bottle - these sensible trekkers eh?
Artigue was slightly larger than Sode, and still very attractive. It doesn't matter the size of the hamlet, there is always a nice old church!
The GR10 climbed nice and gently out of Artigue on a wide track. It meandered through pasture and a bit of forest before arriving at the Cabane de Saunères (1660m). The views down into the valley were really impressive, but for some reason I didn't take any photos - I blame the heat which was now mega! My water concern was rising as I knew now there was none until a stream on the descent, and there was a lot of sun exposed climbing to go!
Pasture land on the climb to the Cabane de Saunères.
The gentle and wide track did help with managing this part of the climb with the heat.
The path narrowed and steepened from the Cabane as it headed towards the Col de Peyrehitte (1947m).
I took this section very slowly.
Despite the heat the insects were still busy with their day's chores!
I'd be guzzling nectar from these flowers if I was a bee today!
After my insect gazing I continued up the climb. So far I'd been climbing the slopes of Plan de Montmajou (2082m) and after the Col des Taons de Bacanère (1976m) the path proceeded to climb towards Pic de Bacanère (2193m).
Walking slowly up ... along the France Spain border marked only by border stones I got great joy staying in France for a bit, then deciding to travel into Spain for a bit! I know, I should be way more mature than this at my age! On a more mature level it was a perfect demonstration of the ridiculousness of borders and the debates and issues they cause. Just lines in the sand, or in this case stones on a mountain ridge! A strong viewed Catalonian or Basque Country person wouldn't even recognise the border stones between France and Spain, they recognise different boundaries. I will hopefully trek over the giant mass of Canigou towards the end of my journey and I've read that is a Pilgrimage for Catalans .. not French Catalans, not Spanish Catalans - just Catalans! See, I can be a bit mature!
Pic de Bacanère (2193m) provided fantastic views literally from the border over both France and Spain!
Obviously I'm trekking on the French side of the Pyrenees so it was good to be reminded how far into Spain the mountains stretch. Not far over there is the Spanish trail, the GR11 - another long distance trail, hmmmm?!
There was a dip and a rise to traverse across a steep cliffside of Pic de la Hage (2165m) to get to the Col d'Esclot d'Aou (2093m), that took me between Pic du Burat (2154m) and Pic de la Hage.
I was out of water at this point. I had managed good control at sipping rather than gulping, so wasn't too worried as the stream wasn't too far away.
The heat was dropping a bit as cloud cover came in, and a light shower started which as long as it didn't get worse felt quite welcome after the intense heat of the climb!
Descending from the Col d'Esclot d'Aou (2093m) it wasn't long before I could hear the Ruisseau de Boucouas below. That was a relief as thirst was setting in, I was considering 'doing a camel' again!
I couldn't see the town of Fos yet and didn't expect to as there was a long descent ahead through thick forest. I'd read in the guide book that the path down has over 50 switchbacks, so I was prepared for a tough one! However, the guidebook also said that there are wild camping opportunities so I didn't know how much of the descent I'd do this afternoon/evening.
One option to stop for the night was the Cabane d'Artigue but I'm not keen on the Cabanes, they look lovely on the outside but can be quite dark and dingy inside. I love my tent nights, and have a growing determination to do every night in the tent!
I continued down the forest, passing a couple of not particularly nice potential camping opportunities before arriving at the section of the descent with switchbacks. Here the ground just wasn't great for camping, both for incline issues and the fact that there was only leaves and sharp branches as a camping surface! The longer I continued down, the more I started to gey concerned as to where I was going to pitch tonight! So getting down to the bottom without finding anywhere suitable was a total bummer! I was going to have to continue into town!
Arriving into Fos was a bit depressing as I was beginning to prepare for a horrible camp somewhere near a road probably! I carried on down the main road which came to a bridge over the river. The town was looking OK for a stay, just not in a tent! On seeing the campground sign I decided to have a look despite knowing it had been closed. For some reason I had hope though!
My hope turned out to be well founded as the campground was a veritable oasis of vans and tents all set up in the strange looking, part dismantled site! As I was searching with concern for the receptionist in the graffiti strewn, vandalised concrete entrance area a young man approached me and let me know it was free to stay, there is one hot shower, one loo and access to drinking water! Amazing! Turns out it's community run, probably by the Gites business. What a relief, and what a great thing to do. So with a renewed spring in my step I set up. The hot shower was stunning. I had a visit to the slowest shop in the world at the Gites and got some local cheese to scoff! There was going to be a music performance but I told the faces I recognised I was too tired! Plus I love retiring to my tent and appreciating my day! People must think I'm a right miserable git I thought as I was happily ensconced in my tent. However, I was also aware that there was probably some sub conscious part of me avoiding temptation that is extremely destructive to me. So I retired into the sleeping bag comfortable, replete and very happy that this campground was open!
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