Day 31: Fos to Refuge de l'Étang d'Araing

I awoke early and conscious of still being tired, but that was balanced with the feeling of having had a very satisfying and comfortable night. I revived quickly when remembering just how difficult the night could've been without the wonderful free campsite! It's funny to think how annoyed I was at the lack of good wild camping on the descent yesterday which then transformed into happiness on arrival at the oasis of the random and free campground! The plan was to get ready slowly, walk the 200m to the Hôtel la Gentilhommière and get a café double, a baguette and see what else was on offer! There were croissants on offer, so I had two, even after a modest tent breakfast! Well, it is the Ariège I told myself as I stuffed them down with the beautiful café! What a lovely start to my day, sat in the central square are having that 2nd breakfast wondering what the trek ahead held in store for me. I probably haven't said enough just how much I love and appreciate these simple, yet completely satisfying moments.

To my delight there were croissants on offer so despite my 'modest' tent breakfast I managed two! Well, it is the Ariège and it may be a while before more croissants I told myself as I stuffed them down! It was a lovely start to my day, sat in the central square of Fos having a 2nd breakfast wondering what the trek ahead held in store for me. I probably haven't said enough just how much I love and appreciate these simple, yet completely satisfying moments.

So, after my 2nd breakfast and realising all other trekkers were long gone on their daily routes, I thought I should start to get on my way! I confidently turned left on the GR10 and walked through Fos but something seemed awry?! No markers?! Damn, I should've turned right! Once I'd realised my faux pas, I about faced and walked the half kilometre back past the Hôtel la Gentilhommière I'd just left saying Bon Journee to the same clientele that watched me depart with such confidence! I walked past in a very relaxed fashion, with any swagger Craig could try and appear like he had! Of course I'd meant to go sightseeing the main street of Fos that has definitely seen way better days! Totally cool Craigy, I reckon they bought it?! Onwards!

After my minor embarrassment I regained the GR10 for a little climb up the backstreets of Fos (544m). Fos was strange. It's in a nice location, is obviously old, and has some lovely houses and buildings. There just must be little to no economic activity as lots of it is run down, abandoned or closed up. Then mixed into the rundown appearance are nice, well maintained houses, and like all mountain villages here the flowers are pristine! It must've been a grand village at one point, and I'd certainly love to do a property up somewhere like it .. well, maybe not Fos, but I love the idea! The GR10 joined a track that meandered through the land just above Fos towards the Spanish border. I was feeling very peaceful with the trail to myself, I'm often glad to let all the early trekkers go. I tend to do that as I love the peace and solitude - either that or I'm a miserable git!

Right in view of the border, the GR10 started up the steep switchbacked road to Melles. It was a proper, steep, narrow mountain road. I love roads like that. Soon, and to my surprise I was joined by a 7.5 tonne delivery truck crawling up the road! I wondered if it was going to the Auberge de Crabere, where I'd already planned a coffee stop before hitting the big climb into wilderness! Turns out me and this truck shared the ascent to the Auberge, the driver negotiating hairpin bends, buildings so close to the road the truck nearly scraped them and cars! We arrived at the same time!

I had a nice café double, and met a lovely and very strong Staffordshire Bull Terrier. Had a football he was destroying and could wrestle out your grip no bother! I asked what his name was - 'Psycho' was the response! I had no comment when watching the football disintegrate! Melles is a lovely village, so different to Fos in that all houses were occupied and well maintained. Strange, as the villages were so close together, the only difference being about 200m altitude! Maybe more people invest for the better views?

After Melles it was a long walk all the way up the small mountain road. I really enjoyed it as it gradually traversed up the side of Pic d'Escales (1816m) and then Pic de Pale Bidau (1936m). The temperature wasn't burning yet, there were plenty of water points and the views were great. Also, there were quite a few lovely mountain houses all the way up to the road head, possibly holiday lets, but also some residential as well - lucky people!

I really enjoyed the road walk, probably shouldn't say that! It was quiet, there were interesting sights and lovely views. The gradient was gentle and the temperature nice. What's not to like?! Purist trekkers might be revolted by a bit of road, but if it's nice road without traffic I'm fine with a bit of it! That said, it was good to get back onto narrow track and path once it arrived!

Before I got stuck into the approaching steep climbing I did a quick solar charge of the GPS watch with the absolutely awesome Goal Zero Nomad 10, which it's fair to say I love. It gets some appreciation as well, other people like it! It might be the only thing I'm lugging about that other trekkers are envious of?!

As I continued into the forest there were still a few old buildings nestling into steep hillsides.

The path took me through some flat areas and further into the thickening forest, where things steepened somewhat! The climb towards Pas de Bouc had started in earnest!

The road and path had traversed the slopes of Pic de Pale Bidau (1936m) and was now ascending Pic de Pièle de Mil (2128m). The forest thinned out and there was some narrow, rocky path where there should've been a nice waterfalls but alas it was dry! A frequent feature of quite a few areas is how significantly drier they are from years gone by.

A few clouds were building, but nothing of concern .. yet!

I thought the light might've been generous to a selfie, apparently not!

There was more gentle climbing now, past Cabane d'Uls (1850m), and onwards up to Pas du Bouc (2170m).

For some reason on the way up and over the pass it started to feel really lonesome, not so much me, but just the territory. I have no idea why?! Maybe it was me, not the territory? It was a nice lonesome though!

It struck me after a while that despite being several times as high as UK moorland, this section of walking was reminding me of UK moorland!

There was a traverse across from Pas du Bouc (2170m) to Col d'Auéran (2176m) which was relatively flat and pastoral land.

It was on this section of the path that I had my 2nd Patou Dog experience! I heard some sheep approaching me rapidly from ahead, so I stepped off the path and started to video to pass the time! The sheep get a shock, kind of look confused, and generally jump off the path! However, in their midst a white mass didn't appear shocked or want to deviate! In fact it headed in my direction with menace and confidence! A Patou Dog was herding them, all alone, and it's fair to say it gave me a little charge and look as if to say stay there and stay still! I did!

Soon Lac d'Araing came into view with the mightily impressive Pic du Crabère (2629m) to my right that towers over the lake.

The descent to the Refuge area was short, and it was looking like a lovely place to stop for the afternoon and night. Once down I had a quick scout for camping spots and saw mine straight away! I honed in on it to rapidly set up camp!