Day 32: Refuge de l'Étang d'Araing to Wild Camp below Col de l'Arech

I woke up at 06:00 after really struggling to get to sleep before about 01:30, no idea why apart from the fact my body had turned into a wind factory (well, more than usual!). Was it the Chilli Con Carne combined with the healthy grain and vegetable creations, or the chocolate cereal peanut and sultana mixture I additionally stuffed my face with?! Who knows, but I would inflate rapidly, and then deflate rapidly in as silent a manner as possible! Whatever it was, I didn't sleep long but felt OK on awakening.

I chilled out for a while with only a few swearwords at the cacophony of hover flies investigating my tent! When the sun started to get near rising over the cliffs to the East I started to get organised. It was a very nice breaking of camp, everything ultra dry and a lovely temperature and feeling as the day was at it's start.

I of course went up to the Refuge building for a bol du café au lait in the cool but probably soon to be very hot sunshine! I like how they serve their large coffees in bowls!

After the coffee and a warm up in the sunshine it was time to set off for the short day I had planned. The GR10 descended a bit from Refuge de l'Étang d'Araing (1950m), and crossed the dam at it's base. With simply a thick wall between me and millions of tonnes of water I couldn't help but wonder what it would be like if it burst on me - why does my mind work like this I mused as I crossed and started the climb up to Serre d'Araing (2221m).

Sometimes climbs first thing in the morning are tough as you're body isn't fully awake, but I also realised that I am fatigued after a month of crossing the Pyrenees fully packed - oh, and I must remember my age! So, I took it slow and enjoyed the views of the impressive cliffs of Pic de l'Har (2424m) to my left, and the rising mass of Tuc deth Comat deth Pòrt (2547m) to my right.

Towards the top a Patou dog appeared and sat down to survey the scene. These dogs are so deceptive, they look nice and dog like but they aren't dogs as you know them. These are truly still wild dogs and they know their purpose doesn't involve humans! As I approached the surveying Patou (a female I think), she started a bark that was deep and meaningful. This was responded to by other similar barks from above! I continued to climb, trying to be nonchalant as she followed me at quite close quarters continuing to bark! Turns out she had herded me into view of a giant of a male Patou looking down and barking as if to say 'Don't dare come this way pal'! There was one big problem - he was sat on the GR10 just before Serre d'Araing!

With much relief as long as I went towards the path down and not the path up to their sheep, the Patou Dog greeting party allowed me to carry on my merry way and proceed over Serre d'Araing.

The panorama was lovely but this descent was dominated by an old lead mining enterprise. La Mine de Bentaillou (1870m) was a big operation in it's day, and was one of several mines in the Biros Valley area. I guess you could say it was an ugly scar on the mountainside, but I think is was almost like an openair museum to humankind's relationship with the planet and it's resources. A lot of the stuff we have and use has it's roots sonewhere like this! We just don't often see it! Also, reading about the mine's history, you realise the super rich and their subservient political class were monsters to the workers - made me ponder the direction certain politicians are dragging us in presently?! ... Craig, no politics!

The route into the mine was carved out of the rock of the cliffside, must've been brutal work.

It was such an impressive walkway now on the GR10! Great work mining people, I appreciate your painful efforts!

The path continued a pretty steep and tough descent towards Eylie-d'en-Haut (990m) which took me over rough pasture, old mine workings and then through thick forest.

It was a relief to arrive into the tiny hamlet, just a small collection of buildings with a lovely Gîtes d'étape. I made my way there to rest in the now ferocious heat. As I met some familar trail faces at the Gîtes there was talk of afternoon thunder storms so I was glad to be planning on camping at the aire de bivouac near the small river not far out of the hamlet.

I stocked up on the local 3 milk cheese (cow, goat and sheep), homemade bread and homemade sable biscuits. All whilst having fresh coffees with a view! Marvelous!

So, this face tells you that things didn't remain marvelous! The aire de bivouac area wasn't the Riverside paradise I imagined, it was OK. However, what was definitely not OK was my choice of camping spot! I thought it would be nice to set up right near the river, on some ground that looked good. I was convincing myself it was fine as I realised this was a bit of a toilet area maybe, and a spot where people come down to wash! But as the storm hit I resigned to spending the night there - that was until I started to wonder why water was gathering around my tent?! I had managed to pitch exactly in the flow of rainwater to stream, and things weren't looking good for me!

The weather was questionable, I wasn't sure if another storm was on it's way?! Would I get smashed and even more soaked on this climb?! Will there be anywhere decent to camp?! However, I was committed to the climb so the only way was forwards - well, upwards really!

My work rate on the climb was actually pretty astonishing. Time was of the essence so it was every muscle sinew to the pump! Soon Eylie-d'en-Haut was becoming smaller in the valley below as I started laughing at the situation I'd got myself into! The plan was to try see what camping was possible at Col de l'Arech at the top of the climb.

With about 150m ascent to go, my eye caught sight of a potential wild camp. In fact, maybe an amazing wild camp?! I assessed the ground - sloping, but certainly possible, and stunning views. No water, but I'd ration enough to fill up tomorrow I thought. So, the decision was made to try rescue the evening here! Luckiky, I still had enough time left before darkness to try and dry all my flood affected gear! And just enough room to spread it out to dry on the tiny wild camp spot I'd decided to call home for the night.

Once settled and organised, I loved my wild camp spot! There was just enough room to fit the tent on what I think is the only spot possible on the slopes of the mountainside I was on!

The rain sheet eventually dried off and I was able finalise the tent set up ready for food, warmth and comfort!