Day 33: Wild Camp below Col de l'Arech to Wild Camp at Maison du Valier

I woke up before 06:00 and decided to do teeth and empty bladder before getting back into the warm sleeping bag, as is often the routine 1st thing! When I unzipped the tent I was given a special sense of privilege, one that I get a lot out here on this journey, but was so front and centre today!

From my tiny mountainside camping spot I was presented with a amazing morning panorama. There was cloud hanging on the mountaintops all around me, as well as the mountains opposite me across the deep valley. The moon was peeping out from behind some of the cloud, and the twinkling hamlet lights far below were still shining in the dawn light above a few wisps of low hanging cloud. Some distant thicker cloud was hanging much further down the valley. There was a great fresh morning smell, a nice cool temperature and a beautiful silence interrupted only by the odd waking bird, with the slightly audible river flowing 650m down below on the valley floor.

I hope I can do the scene justice. I'm trying to bottle moments like these for when I'll certainly need to return myself to them in the near future.

I spent the next hour and a half just watching the morning develop from the comfort and warmth of my tent, perched on the only spot that was possible on all the climb I beasted yesterday evening. I had aimed to carry on to Col de l'Arech 150m above, but time and tiredness stopped me! I was feeling very glad I stopped to sort myself out here, it had been an amazing wild camp in the end. I hadn't thought I'd get such an experience after the horrible flood event yesterday!

Eventually it got to the point where the time for admiring the morning needed to morph into admiration combined with action! I started to break camp, leaving the tent up to have breakfast with a view!

I took my time with breakfast, eeking out just a bit more viewing before I breaking camp! There's always that burning desire to keep trekking that gets you going, but time to admire is so important. I'm trying to balance trekking with restful breaks, however I'm proving that I'm struggling with those breaks. Well I'd say they're hit or miss, and I'm not so upset and confused with the misses. Anyway, back to the stunning morning!

The cloud cleared a bit higher up, but remained hanging in various parts of the valley below.

Once fully packed there was a 150 odd metre climb to reach Col de l'Arech (1802m). Once I reached it I was doubly glad I camped where I did! It was very exposed to wind up there, and I was actually being buffeted about a bit! Also, the ground wasn't particularly good for a wild camp, and certainly none of the amazing setting and view I try and look for in a wild camp (ignoring the disaster that I abandoned down in Eylie-d'en-Haut, such a bad choice to set up there!).

There was a bit more climbing as the path traversed a short distance across to another Col to then start the descent into the next valley! I keep forgetting to stress how normal this is on the GR10 - steep up, steep down and repeat!

The wind on the traverse was really gusty and I did get a bit of a buffeting around on the high ridge.

The sprawling views on the descent side of the morning were fantastic.

There was a lot of sheep work going on at the Cabane d'Arech (1638m) so after a quick water fill I continued past the busy Bergers. We all exchanged very cordial 'bonjours'!

The mountains building up to Mail de Bulard (2750m) and Pic de Cingles (2582m) gave beautiful viewing through the ever changing cloud on the route down into the valley.

As the path got lower it gave great views of the deep green forests of the valley containing the Ruisseau l'Orle.

Those clouds continued to play around this morning!

I really enjoyed the path down. Was a fun one and I don't really need to add how beautiful it was!

Just a reminder that I love a 'path to nowhere' shot!

The switchbacks provided great viewing platforms in the upper sections of the forested area.

Some of the cloud was starting to concern me, but the weather was holding.

It wasn't too long before the thicker forest was reached.

Once across the river the valley between the down and up was open from tree cover. The grass was incredibly lush and green, I imagine this will be prime time eating for cattle and sheep at some point!

I had a bit of a recharge in the valley, enjoying the views and warm sunshine.

The climb on the opposing side of the valley started as the descent finished - in thick forest and steep!

On the final reaches of the climb to the Cabane de Besset (1540m) the path had left the trees, but the BROUILLARD had moved in so views had been hidden behind it.

Once up and over Col du Clot du Lac (1821m) the BROUILLARD was really thick! It was back to that old feeling of knowing there were good views beyond the white curtain that had formed! However, it was also back to that lonely, atmospheric feeling you get when it closes in.

Traversing the next section was almost as if the mountainside was a beach and the cloud was the waves! The whiteness flowed up and down, blocking the view, then opening it up again!

After traversing for a little while the path turned to descend pasture past a couple of Berger Cabanes. The first was the Cabane du Trapech-du-Milieu (1540m) and the next was the Cabane de l'Artigue not far below. I considered camping at both for some reason, but camping ground around them wasn't great and the feeling wasn't right! Plus, it was pretty early still!

The decision was made to continue down to the Maison du Valier (927m) which is a Gîtes d'étape/hotel/restaurant nestled in a steep sided valley area known as Pla de la Lau. I didn't know whether camping was allowed there but I'd soon find out it was, and it looked really good! There was loads of choice on the ground around the river near the Maison Valier.