15/08/2022 - 11.93kms / 1303m ascent / 563m descent
I was quite slow in breaking camp this morning. I'm not sure why as having had time yesterday afternoon to get super organised I didn't have any excuses! I think it was because the day I had planned wasn't that long. The weather was good, and the views weren't bad, so all was good!
I had taken the option of ordering my 1st picnic lunch on the trek from the Maison du Valier, so when I went to collect it I took the opportunity for a quick café au lait and phone charge! At 11 Euros I thought this will be my last picnic lunch on the trek!
The GR10 started as it normally does with an initial climb! It was immediately a forest path, and was really nice and peaceful as it tracked a stream up.
There was a preponderance of mossy rock, my fantastic private school education would indicate to me that this means its really wet and damp here?! But not today!
Once up the forest section of the climb the views of the mountains over the valley were stunning. I want to say I could see Mont Valier (2838m) and it's friends, but I have to admit I'm not sure.
I was sure Mont Valier was in there somewhere, maybe hidden from view, but wherever she was it was a gorgeous view! Pic de Trémoul would've been at the fore, so maybe I was staring at her. Whatever, I'm just incredibly blessed to be staring at all these mountains I thought. I decided to try the picnic lunch here!
The lunch was quite nice, not 11 Euros nice though! So, getting ready after my picnic lunch I was joined by a very pretty friend who latched onto my arm and didn't want to seem to leave it! There are so many butterflies in the Pyrenees, all sorts of vibrant and beautiful colours. My identification skills are zero, not even a bit above zero, just a flat zero!
Think he or she was having a lunch on something from my skin as we spent many peaceful minutes like this. Don't worry butterfly, thank you for making me pause longer in this amazing location. Pausing and relaxing is very difficult for me, doesn't come at all naturally to me, so thank you butterfly. I hope you have a happy existence up here! There are many moments in days here where I think deeply about what direction I take in life after this journey, for some reason a connection with a butterfly sparked a deep one today.
Anyway, physically I only had one direction to go - The Only Way is Up, Baby!
The forest petered out and the views were incredible no matter which way the path faced.
I don't think I've mentioned just how much I love my North Face hat? Hats and me don't mix well, I look stupid in most hats I adorne! But this one seems to look acceptable on me, is really good for sun protection, and is very comfortable! Oh, there's some amazing mountains in the background by the way.
Got to include a 'path to nowhere' moment! Love them!
After a brief flirtation with relative flatness, the path went back to steepness! It climbed up the slopes of the gigantic mass of rock of mountains that include Mont Valier. This made me realise (post event) that at my butterfly stop I was in fact looking over to Pic de Barlonguère (2802m) and it's junior mates! Geography and private school comment needed? Maybe not!
The path climbed past the Cabane d'Aouen for Bergers, although how any animals graze on this terrain baffled me! You do sometimes see animal turd on paths where you think they must've got lost as I can't see how a cow or sheep can walk up here?! Human exceptionalism at it's finest! Of course they are more nimble and adapted to this terrain than you, silly human Craig.
Anyway, some more tough climbing past the Cabane brought me to the Cap des Lauses (1904m) where the path then traversed along the steep mountainsides, up and over rocky outcrops, towards Col de la Laziès (1840m).
It was a stunning section, with playful cloud providing an ever changing panorama.
Once over the Col the scenery took a change away from ultra steep forested mountains to a long and more gentle slope down towards flatter areas a long way away!
Bur, there were still mountains close by thank goodness! Albeit becoming shrouded in increasing amounts of cloud now.
The path had rounded Pic de Crabère (2085m) and was headed towards Étang d'Ayes (1694m) which was my wild camp target for the night.
The misty cloudiness took hold here, but I couldn't call it full on BROUILLARD - that classification is only used in frustrating circumstances of whiteout!
Down below was still clear though.
The lake popped into view as I walked over a little col to reveal the rocky descent down to it.
My child like wild camping excitement was growing with each step down, but I had concerns about the amount of what must've been 'day trippers'!
Étang d'Ayes was a beautiful lake, nestling in a space below steep cliffs surrounding most of it. A beautiful spot to choose to wild camp at, so I proceeded to circumnavigate it's shores seeking my spot, the best available as a group of youngsters were swimming from a raised spot that looked great. They would probably go soon I thought - 'day trippers'!
I found a really nice flat area on the far side of the lake, this would be just as good as over the other side where the noisy group of youngsters were. I'd wait until they're gone before setting up so I could check out the spot they were currently occupying!
All of a sudden I heard what were multiple tent fly sheets being shaken! What the heck is going on I thought! They can't be camping here?! They're 'day trippers', surely they can't be 'overnighters'?! Please no, not 'overnighters' I depressingly pleaded, knowing my pleading was futile!
They were harmless youngsters I assumed, but a way too big and noisy group to properly enjoy a wild camp at this beautiful lake. So, begrudgingly I picked up 'Superpack' and continued. Time wasn't a problem, and I put my belief in the right place that there would be sonewhere else. Just not quite the same!
Well, my belief was rewarded with not too much more walking. I passed over Col d'Auédole (1725m) and negated path below crags before turning a corner and seeing home for the night!
A perfect ledge wild camp spot appeared and despite a lack of water it was a good enough substitute for the initial plan! So, I pitched happy enough with the result. A shortish day, but I had prebooked a campsite in the town of Seix for a couple of nights next, so I didn't want tomorrow to be an ultra short day!
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