Day 41: Aulus Les Bains and Day Trek of Cascade d'Ars

I woke up this morning ready to get set for a day trek to incorporate the part of the GR10 I didn't trek yesterday. It was strange to be setting off to trek without 'Superpack'! Today I just had my small bag with wallet and water, and it was incredible to be so light!

Leaving the campsite in Aulus-les-Bains and walking through the town, past the thermal baths that had definitely seen their hey day, and then into the old centre, I started to warm to the place. It has a character I couldn't quite define but definitely liked. Not much remains open, but there are grand buildings mixed with old residential houses and farm houses. I was feeling happy to be where I was, doing what I was doing.

So a bit about Aulus-les-Bains:

From the early 19th century, Aulus expanded as a health spa, frequented by "invalids of love" or "young people with shameful illnesses". This came about after a syphilitic army lieutenant had found some relief in its waters, probably because they counteracted the effects of the mercury then used to treat syphilis patients. The lieutenant's regiment spread the word and by 1849 Aulus had three hotels, a new bridge and an avenue of acacia trees to attract visitors.

It appears the treatment of 'young people with shameful illnesses' was a booming industry when Aulus-les-Bains back in it's pomp .. oh la la .. the legend of the amourous French is obviously true!

Anyway, after the business of water healing properties had been pondered upon, the first task for me was to ascend to back up the track I'd literally jogged down yesterday, to the point where I left the GR10 at Jasse-de-Fouillet. I get such a nostalgic and comforting feeling of belonging when I return to the GR10 from a divertion off it, so nice!

So, happy and feather light, I started the climb up towards Plateau du Souliou (1600m) to cross the North ridge of Pic du Mont Rouge (2379m). It was a very pleasant forested path with a nice view of Etang de Guzet on the way up. On average the gradient was gentle, but being the GR10 and the Pyrenees there were some steeps .. but without 'superpack' I was flying! I thought back to 'megapack' and the first days of this amazing journey that nearly finished me. Wow, what a journey and what a privilege. I was feeling great love for 'my' trail, and dare I say it I was feeling some pride in myself, I was feeling relaxed and happy in my own skin. I think I was understanding I wanted to to be nowhere else, doing nothing else.

The high point of the day's walking was at Plateau de Souliou (1600m) where the clouds had given way to allow lovely views of the valleys below, as well as the peaks above of Tuc de Pédiere (1993m) and Pic de Mont Rouge (2379m).

It was nice to trek knowing that I had plenty of time to spare today. I could really just take time to be still at times, to look at the small things as well as the large, and to generally appreciate this trail and the journey I was on.

Being a lovely forest in the middle of the mountains, pretty much undisturbed, it supported a large array of life. I had plenty of time to check out the small, still stuff today. I started with a yellow slimy mushroom thing - it's offical classification!

Then maybe a flower thingy - is this a flower I pondered?

There were several of these flower thingys about.

Flies .. I decided I'd pause my difficulties with flies as they weren't annoying me today. Only a pause though! I decided I'd appreciate their endeavours on a yellow flower thingy.

 It was a relief not to feel I wanted to swear furiously at them as if they can hear and understand me! This was because they were doing their fly stuff on the forest stuff, and not on my face or in my ears! See flies, that's how easy it is for us to get along!

I guess they are fascinating little creatures! I'll give you that for today flies I thought - but I know for sure our battle will be back on more normal terms at some point soon!

Leaves! A leaf is an interestingly beautiful thing looked at in isolation!

And finally, a slimy white mushroom thing - it's official classification!

Oh, and I spotted an ugly crinkled face with a shiny bald head! It's official classification!

So, I should really get back to the trail!

Since the boggy pass, the path had been rocky through a forested area and still remained rocky but came out of the trees to negotiate some giant 'slabs' of slippery rock on the traverse of the North face of Cap du Pis Blanc (2120m).

The path had been descending a little until I arrived at Passerelle d'Ars (1485m), where the Russieau d'Ars flowed attractively towards the sheer drop of the Casacde d'Ars ... seems all about Ars'es here?!!

I walked past some amazing riverside wild camp spots, I did feel envy at who may have enjoyed a stay there last night, but gladness in the hope they had a lovely experience. I consoled my slightly hurting wild camping soul that if/when I'm back we will stay there! There are a few spots like that .. an excuse to do this again was already brewing within!

I still couldn't see Aulus les Bains but knew it was nestled somewhere down below, hidden by the blanket of trees in the valleys.

The Casacde d'Ars.

The Cascade d'Ars in full!

The path down from the falls was relatively gentle, wooded, and pleasant. I was feeling fresh, light and content.

The GR10 entered at the top of the town, away from the area of the thermal baths. Here it's history seemed much more steeped in farming matters from times present and past. There were many lovely old buildings on the short walk back to the central area, where of course I had to search for more supplies from the nice shop! I'm sure the staff were starting to worry about how many times I had been in there, but maybe that extra calorie or two would slot into some gap somewhere in 'superpack'!